............Essential Oil Recipes...
Basic Recipes for making your own cosmetics, bath products, soaps, etc. with YOUR OWN special essential oil Combinations
(never use metal and be careful with plastics - glass is best)
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Garden Essence Essential Oils
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.. .Body Powder/Baby powder
(use less and mild oils for baby powder such as lavender or chamomile)
8 ounces arrowroot
(herb) or cornstarch or a combination of both.
add 15 drops of your favorite
essential oil or essential oil combination -
Combine carrier oil and beeswax,
and warm oil to melt beeswax. Stir in honey or
vit. E and
You can make a solid perfume
using the same method - just add more essential
oil. I always use pure essential oils, however,
you could substitute perfume oils. You might
also use a healing combination such as "NoMo
Pain" which smells great.
Essential Oil cream
In a glass measuring cup add oil and beeswax. Put the measuring cup into a pan of water - the water needs to go at least 1/2 way up the outside of the measuring cup. Heat until the beeswax melts. Remove cup from pan. Cool a little but do not let the beeswax harden. Test by carefully putting finger in the wax mixture. It should not be uncomfortable, and a film of wax should form at the edge. Pour luke warm water into a blender - remove center ring. Turn blender on high speed and slowly add the oil and beeswax mixture. It is best to use a wide mouth funnel to keep splattering to a minimum. The temperature of the oil and how steady the oil is poured will have some bearing on the finished product. There is some leeway and perfection is not necessary.
This should begin to harden after about 3/4's of the oil has been added. At this point you may need to stir - preferably use a wooden chopstick along the top edges and be careful to stay away from the blades in the center. Slowly add the rest of the oil until it becomes too stiff to take any more oil or until all the water is dissipated. Sometimes there is some water left - pour it off or absorb with a paper towel.
At this time you should have a thick, beautiful cream. Now add the essential oils and turn on the blender just enough to combine the essential oils. Do not over blend. Put in jars. May be refrigerated for a longer shelf life.
Lotion - follow the
above directions with these quantities of
Cream recipe - very
This can also be made into a body scrub if made quite
runny and mixed with
Combine water, vodka or everclear and petals in a
covered jar - place in the sun.
Glycerine and Rosewater Lotion
Salt melts and softens the water, the glycerin will
moisturize your skin and the color will vanish.
Lots More great Info!
Here are some links
Links to separate pages:
As you may recall from school, soap results from the chemical reaction between fats, which are acids, and lye, a base. Our soapmaking foremothers made a weak lye solution from wood ashes, but, lucky us, we can go to the supermarket and buy a truly scary modern convenience in a can, the aptly named Red Devil lye.
The truth about lye: It is not your friend. It is, in fact, the basest of bases - that is, it will hurt you if it can. Leave it unattended and someone will drink it and die. Neglect to use safety glasses just once and it will splash you squarely in the eyes.
But properly harnessed, lye will turn ordinary Crisco, lard or vegetable oils into a thing of beauty and utility. The lye disappears, married off molecule by molecule with the fat, leaving a mild and moisturizing bar with a high percentage of natural glycerin.
Your homemade soap will be kind, even healing, to troubled skin; creams and lotions will become as redundant as a wood stove in July. Once you try homemade soap, you won't go back.
But it's not always an easy sell. When I tried to give my 19-year-old daughter a bar specially formulated for oily skin, she took a step backward. "No way," she declared. "I'll turn into one big zit." Two weeks later, she called home to announce that her face had cleared up. Would I send some tea tree-peppermint soap for her roommates?
Older folks tend to be wary of "lye soap," those hard cakes made from lard that Grandma used for scrubbing everything from laundry to babies. Most people will marvel at your handcrafted soap, although it may take a little coaxing to get them to use it. But once they do, they'll be asking for more.
Which is a good thing, because I'll let you in on soapmaking's dirty little secret: Once you start, you won't want to stop.
In fact, if Oprah had followed her grandma out to the
soap vat and started stirring, she might still be in
First and foremost, arm yourself with safety glasses and thin rubber gloves. Next you'll need:
Fats and oils. You won't find coconut and palm oils, the mainstays of most soap recipes, at the grocery store. So we'll use olive oil (the less expensive, the better) and vegetable shortening.
Distilled water. Tap or well water can cause problems.
Red Devil lye. It's at the grocery, next to the Drano. Do not use Drano, which is not pure sodium hydroxide. Shake Red Devil cans until you find one that sounds "smooth," not crunchy. Read the precautions on the label.
Scent. Use essential oils (the distillation of
herbs and flowers used in aromatherapy and found at
natural food stores) or synthetic fragrance oils (but
only ones that have been tested for soapmaking). You'll
need about half an ounce (about 1 1/2 tablespoons) to
scent a pound of soap. Or make unscented soap. Just
don't dump vanilla extract or your bottle of Chanel No.
5 into the soap pot: Alcohol and soap don't mix.
Color. Soaps can be colored with herbs, clay, spices and powdered pigments, to name a few. In a perfect world, blueberries would make blue soap. Alas, they do not. Food coloring also won't work.
Extras. Oatmeal and poppy seeds make excellent exfoliants. Herbs such as comfrey and calendula heal and soothe. Small amounts of expensive oils such as avocado, jojoba and hemp seed will make your soap even better.
A beginner's recipe to stir the imagination
There are endless combinations in soapmaking, limited only by your ingenuity, budget and natural law. Keep your first batch simple.
Very simple soap
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons Crisco
1 1/3 cups olive oil
1/4 cup Red Devil lye
6 fluid ounces cool distilled water
Arrange for two hours without interruptions. Wear long sleeves. Put on safety glasses and gloves. Keep vinegar at hand for lye splashes.
Measure the cool water in the heatproof cup. Place it in the sink, where it can't be knocked over. Working in a well-ventilated area, measure the lye. Hold your breath (not because of the danger, but because there will be fumes) and pour the lye slowly into the water, stirring until dissolved. The lye solution will top 175 degrees.
Place the Crisco in the stainless-steel pot over low heat until it melts (about 20 minutes). Add the olive oil. After another 15 minutes, take the soap pot off the heat.
Within five minutes, both the pot and the heatproof cup should feel toasty (about 115 degrees if you have a glass candy thermometer) but not hot. Slowly pour the lye solution into the fats, stirring steadily. The mixture will lighten and start to thicken.
Looking for trace. Stir diligently for 15 minutes, or until the soap traces. Trace occurs when a bit of raw soap, dribbled from the spatula across the surface, leaves "traces" for a few seconds before sinking back in. If you don't get trace after 15 minutes, take a 10-minute break. Stir another 15 minutes. Repeat. Your soap should eventually trace. (If it doesn't, recheck your measurements. You may have to start over.)
At trace, stir in 1 1/2 tablespoons scent and pour the soap immediately into the mold. Insulate. Scrape the leftover soap in the pot onto a paper towel and toss it.
Wash the utensils in hot water.
The cure. Leave the soap undisturbed for 24 hours. It will heat up as it goes through its chemical reaction, then cool. When the soap is firm, cut into four to six bars and put them in a dry, well-ventilated place, away from kids and pets.
Vegetable-based soap needs at least two weeks to tie up loose ends, while soaps made with animal fat seem to take twice that long to lose their "bite." Be patient.
Otherwise, you'll arouse unnecessary suspicion if you offer your creation with the words: "Here is your mild and moisturizing bar of homemade soap, but don't use it for two weeks, OK?"
Stir 45 min to 1 hour then
add 4 tsp cheap essential oil or 1 tsp of ours
Stir 45 minutes to 1 hour
then add 4 tsp. cheap essential oil or 1 tsp of ours
Goat Milk Soap
Some essential oil suggestions of combinations to add to soaps
Geranium, Citronella (Happy
a.. 1/2 cup plain flour
Make your own Perfume
• Essential oils
Perfume is simple to make, the trick is to put the essential oils together creating a smell you like. Perfume is made up of base notes (the smell stays the longest on your skin), middle notes (smell stays second longest), and top notes (smell of oil evaporates first). Because the oils all evaporate at different rates the perfume may smell different as time goes on. Below are listed easily found essential oils divided into base, middle and top notes.
There is some controversy on which oils belong in each group so this is only a starting place.
• Base notes-Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Patchouli,
Sandalwood, Vanilla. Ylang ylang
To make your perfume, mix at least 25 drops total of
essential oils divided evenly between base, middle and
top notes. Start with the base notes, then middle, then
top, smelling as you go. Add a few drops of the bridge
oil. Add 2 1/2 ounces of alcohol, shake for a few
minutes, then let it sit for 48 hours (or up to 6
weeks-the longer it sits, the stronger the smell). Add 2
tablespoons distilled water, stir, then pour through a
coffee filter and put it in a bottle.
20 to 30 drops of Essential Oil to 1/2 oz. (15 ml.) of jojoba oil. (carrier oil)